The ferrata-tunnel traveller pose
We emerged again, this time directly on the open crest of the Costabella ridgeline, and the wires started again - this time looking very fresh and silvery and new. With many stemples and rods as additional climbing aids, the wire led in a very airy manner westward on the ridgecrest - sometimes directly atop it, sometimes a little off to the northern side. There were a lot of very cool airy-looking positions with which we could take some dramatic hero photographs. Evie had gotten over her initial fear of the airy positions and was starting to clip along with a lot more confidence.
Back out on exposed rideline
This second ferrata section - although much longer than the initial section with its wired ramp - was over fairly quickly. I think we got through it in less than twenty minutes in total. With a final exposed descend next to an older ladder, it deposited us on a wider, rounder section of ridge where the route returned to a straightforward hiking path. Because we weren't yet at the end of the ferrata (according to the map), we kept all of our ferrata gear on.
So... our first foray on a ferrata route had gone well. No issues, scenic, and with everyone climbing in a safe manner. Our real problem (once again) was time. We were still about one and a half kilometres from our destination rifugio at Passo Le Selle. I once again got out my cellphone and called ahead to the rifugio, to (a) tell them that we were ok and just running behind schedule, (b) apologize for being late, and (c) ask them if it was possible to still have food ready for us beyond the normal dinner time.
We made best use of the easy bit of trail here to rapidly walk west. The clouds had rolled in more thickly now, and visibility was down to only a few tens of metres. The poor visibility meant that in a few spots, where waymarks and the tread of the trail were not present, the course of trail 637 was not obvious. Care (and often a slightly slower pace) was required.
We came to a signed junction along the ridgeline. Straight ahead, trail 637 and the ferrata Bepi Zac continued along the ridgecrest, presumably for a final stretch of ferrata along another technical section of ridgeline before descending directly down onto the rifugio. The rifugio was probably less than a kilometre away via this route. The side trail, which led southward and downward, was actually not marked at all on my map - but it was clear that it was a way to get off the ridge and down into the non-technical and easy slopes not far below. Very likely it was a way for us to bypass that final bit of the ferrata, although with the penalty of extra down and up and some extra trail distance.
Normally I wouldn't hesitate to tackle a short stretch of grade 1 ferrata over a distance of less than a kilometer. We had two problems, though: mist, and dark. As in, there was a lot of both the former and the latter. I was pretty wary of taking the group up into technical terrain in dark and in cloud. It would be so easy for a small lapse in the waymarking to lead us astray, and the last thing I wanted was one or more of us to be lost and disoriented with cliffs and dropoffs in all directions.
courtesy BConnell
Alternate Descent
So... amidst groans and mutterings from the kids about the prospect of yet extra distance and time being piled on to what - once again - was turning out to be an extended day that had ended in the dark, we chose the safe option: down the bypass route, hike along the base of the ridge, and then catch a trail that would bring us back up to the ridgecrest at Passo Le Selle, where our rifugio for the night was located.
The initial part of the bypass route was itself ferrata - down a steep and rubbly gully, but not hard in any way. Soon the wires ended and it was simply a very steep mountain trail. Gradually the slope lessened and we re-entered the realm of mountain grasses. Our descent also had brought us under the cloud deck, and in the fading light of the day we could see generally across to where we had to intercept the ascending trail (trail 604) that led up to the Passo Le Selle.
Another day, another dusk
We followed our un-marked footpath down into moderately-sloped meadow and then turned to begin a general beeline straight west, traversing across the grasses, in the direction of trail 604. By the time we reached the trail, we were deep into twilight time (It was 9:24pm). Katie and I were in the lead and we stopped and waited for the rest of the crew (Evie was once again forcing impromptu rest stops) to arrive.
Our routefinding troubles over, we just had to march up trail 604 to the pass above, which by my reckoning was about 500-ish feet of elevation (150m) above us. Not a lot, but not pleasant news for those who were sick and tired of hiking. Nevertheless, the trail was easy, obvious, and well-graded. In another thirty minutes, we saw the ghostly, almost castle-like shape of the Rifugio Passo Le Selle become visible in the deep gloom above us. Eye-like windows glowed out into the still, calm night. Perched as it was on a crag above us, the rifugio looked like a structure straight out of a fantasy novel.
Arriving Rif. Passo Le Selle
It was, much like the night before at the Rifugio Passo San Nicolo, a great and welcome relief to climb the final few steps up to the large and sturdy structure - this time made of stone and masonry - of the Rifugio. A wide deck encircled the structure, and we walked around, under the lit windows, to the main entrance. Inside, a spacious flagstone-lined entrance lobby provided a temporary spot for our gear. Across the lobby, a middle-aged gentleman was tending to chores behind a wide bar. He looked up and welcomed us warmly. He identified himself as Floriano, the gentleman with whom I'd been conversing and apologizing to (on my cellphone call, to say we'd be late). I apologized to him again, this time in person.
Another Late-night meal
Floriano brushed off my apology, asked us some questions about our day, and then guided us into the beautifully-finished dining room where a single table among many was set, just for us. Once again, the rest of the rifugio's guests had already been served their evening dinner, and had long ago retired to bed. As we waited, the kids delightedly watched the rifugio's grey cat, playing about on the deck and the windowsills. The cat was friendly but very pick-up averse, choosing to scamper away whenever we got close.
Floriano and other staff soon served us our meal - again hot and delicious, and once again the warm and welcoming hospitality of a mountain rifugio gave us a comfortable and comforting end to our day.
Interactive trackmap with photo points - Rif Pso S. Nicolo to Rif Pso Selle - click map to view
July 11 Dolomites - Hike Data
Start Time:
10:26a.m.
End Time:
10:05p.m.
Duration:
11h38m
Distance:
8.49 km
(5.28 mi)
Average Speed:
0.7 km/hr
(0.5 mph)
Start Elevation:
7704ft
(2348m)
*
Max Elevation:
9038ft
(2755m)
*
Min Elevation:
6426ft
(1959m)
*
End Elevation:
8330ft
(2539m)
*
* : +/- 75 feet
Total Elevation Gain:
3089ft
(942m)
*
Total Elevation Loss:
2471ft
(753m)
*
* : +/- 75 feet
Elevation Graph
